If you are a sewing lover, you will always use fusible interlining. The interlining is fusing with the shell fabric during cloth making to achieve the purpose of being stiff, elastic and washable. The interlining is the “skeleton” of the clothes.
However, have you encountered the problem of bubbles or crinkles caused by improper way to fusing the interlining? Bubbles on fabrics not only affect the appearance, but also cause a large waste during garment production.
Why do bubbles and crinkles occur?
The shell fabric does not match the fusible interlining.
Two factors should be matched or similar between shell fabric and fusible interlining. One is the knitting/weaving method, and the other one is raw material type.
These factors above lead to the different heat shrinkage rates in shell fabric and fusible interlining at ironing temperature. When you are ironing and fusing the unmatched shell fabric, a mutual dislocated force will be generated between them. If this dislocated force is greater than peel strength, it will cause degumming, crinkles and bubbles. The quality of interlining will be affected.
For example, when you use a polyester based fusible interlining to fuse a kind of cotton shell fabric, the crinkles or bubbles would occur by some possibility. At the same temperature, the shrinkage rate is different between manmade polyester fiber and natural cotton fiber. For another bad example, you fuse a weave shell fabric by a knit kind fusible interlining. The structure of fabric is different and this can cause a fusing bubble due to different shrinkage.
Fusing pressure, temperature and time are not correct.
Even some employees who have worked in garment industry over 10 years can ignore these 3 aspects above. Pressure, temperature and fusing time are usually clearly shown on the package of interlining. Read them carefully before fusing is significant.
According to our adhesive coating powder supplier, each different coating glue’s pressure, temperature and time instructions are different. Sometimes the garment workshops are very busy, and they cannot follow the fusing instructions strictly, which can lead to the incomplete melting of glue.
Proper temperature, pressure and time are the basic elements of fusible interlining. The three are required at the same time by fusing process. No matter which element is not up to standard, it will affect the quality of fusing, causing bubbles and crinkles.
You ‘push and pull’ the iron when you are fusing the shell fabric
Irons are widely used not only in factory, but also in small tailor shop. In the fusing process with the shell fabric, the correct way to use iron is important.
If you constantly push and pull the iron in horizontal or vertical direction on the interlining surface, the fusible interlining fabric will be easily deformed, and its shape will be changed. Crinkles and bubbles will occur. This is because the interlining fabric weight is lighter than shell fabric. The action of pushing and pulling of iron will make interlining shape changing before fusing and bonding.
As what we talked in last part, fusing need time, temperature and pressure. Pushing and pulling or other quick moving of iron cannot meet the basic requirements of 3 aspects of fusible interlining above.
– Improper use of steam after fusing or cloth making can also lead to this problems
After making a full cloth, garment factory will do final ironing process. Employees will usually use irons and steam to make the cloth in good looking shape, especially the seam and some special parts. However, if you use the steam in a relatively high temperature, the glue between shell fabric and interlining will be melt by steam again. The bubbles and wrinkles will appear again.
The fusible interlining has quality problems: glue loss
If your operation process is correct but the bubbles and wrinkles still occur, your fusible interlining probably has a quality problem. The glue dots could be lost during the interlining production. Therefore, when you attach the fusible interlining to the shell fabric, the glue empty space will form an ugly bubble.
Solutions for avoiding bubbles and crinkles
Choose the proper fusible interlining
Try to select your fusible interlining by 2 ways below:
- Similar raw material as shell fabric
If your shell fabric is made by cotton, you should choose cotton fusible interlining or natural fiber interlining. If your shell fabric is made by polyester, polyester interlining will be better than others. Same, if your shell fabric is mixed by different raw materials, try to choose your interlining made by stable material, like polyester.
- Similar knitting/weaving method as shell fabric
If your shell fabric is made by knitting method, circular knit or warp knit interlining will be suitable. If your shell fabric is made by weaving machines, normal weave interlining is better. In addition, weft knit interlining is also very stable though they are made by warp knit machines.
– Small tips: pre-shrink your shell fabric and interlining
Many large garment factories always pre-shrink the shell fabric in advance. This is actually a good action, which helps the shell fabric to be more stable when they fuse and sew. If you are at home and sew by yourself, ironing and steaming in advance is a proper way to preshrink your fabric.
Read interlining instruction carefully before fusing
All the interlining company has a detailed instruction of different interlining, on the package outside or catalog book. The pressure, temperature and time is the most important factors before fusing the interlining to shell fabric.
In addition, different shell fabrics also have different tolerances of 3 factors above. For example, the leather requires a relatively low temperature around 100℃. So, check your shell fabric tolerance temperature time and pressure before fusing, too.
– Small tips: add a towel or one more fabric at the very top
Before fusing, you can attach a tower or unused fabric at the very top of fabric layers to protect the shell fabric and interlining. This way can help your sensitive shell fabric to avoid from burning temperature of iron or fusing machine.
Improve your fusing method or ironing method
– Try to choose continuous fusing machine
Continuous fusing machine is more welcomed compared to normal iron. You can set temperature, pressure and time (speed) correctly before fusing. All process is automatic and stable. Even the interlining factories would buy 1 set of continuous fusing machine for lab test.
– Use Iron: ‘Lift up and down’ rather than ‘push and pull’
If you use iron to fuse the interlining, fusing skills is also very important besides temperature, pressure and time. As what we talked above, many new employees ‘push and pull’ the iron to attach the fusible interlining to shell fabric. The right method to fuse the interlining is ‘lifting your iron up and down’.
Lift down and press the iron at one same place above interlining for your intend seconds, and lift up without any horizontal or vertical moving. This action helps your interlining and shell fabric to avoid shape change.
Choose a stable interlining supplier, such as INTERLINO.
We have been focusing on the production and development of high-quality fabric interlinings for clothing and industrial use. We have our own factory and a professional production team. The product quality is strictly controlled, which can be used with confidence.
